The Lion Rock of Sigiriya, The Jewel in Sri Lanka's Crown
Sigiriya's UNESCO World Heritage site is most likely what draws most attention to Sri Lanka. Any trip to this lovely island will find the Lions Rock, sometimes known as Sigiriya, an iconic feature atop a high rock in the heartlands of Central Sri Lanka. A great ancient stone fortress. We have twice visited Sigiriya (it is just that good) and developed this comprehensive guide for your trip.
From the Eiffel Tower to Big Ben, the Taj Mahal to Machu Picchu, every nation boasts a famous monument. Locations so well-known you almost feel compelled to go. There is the illogical worry that missing the main attraction of a country could cause you to be stopped at the border and turned back! The "unmissable" monument in Sri Lanka is Sigiriya's Lion's Rock.
We first came to Sri Lanka mostly for Sigiriya, among other reasons. Back then, we were in an office working when an old screen saver on a colleague's PC caught our eye. Looking like something from a story, some sort of lost universe, a dramatic destroyed fortress town sat shockingly high on top of a lonely rock formation surrounded by lush green woodlands.
We found a name with a quick Google search. Sigiriya, the Sri Lanka Lion Rock.
We adore a good ruin, as we have discussed before, and Sigiriya possessed all the drama, grandeur, and intrigue we could possibly need. We had to see it in actual life; a screensaver was insufficient!
Not to ruin the surprise, but among all we have seen in Sri Lanka, Sigiriya turned out to be among the most amazing experiences. We loved it so much that we essentially looped our path around the island to make two visits! Here is our background and tour to this amazing UNESCO World Heritage site.
Sigiriya rules the surrounding scene totally. Clearly seen for miles around, the boulder looms above the paddy fields and trees below.
King Kashyapa built Sigiriya in the fifth century after he had taken over, banished his brother, killed his father (he was a busy youngster!). King Kashyapa naturally believed that a new, more defendable capital was needed. Displaying the same haughtiness, which is typical of rulers everywhere, he chose the top of a nearly vertical rock formation for his new fortification.
Moving the local monks to another nearby outcrop, he began erecting his palace on the massive rock, then created water gardens, meeting halls, temples, even a sizable moat on top of it. Not too long after King Kashyapa's rule began, his brother returned from exile bearing an army, therefore ending his reign in bloodshed. The monarch killed himself instead of being arrested by the brother he sought to murder; his own troops deserted him.
The completely deserted Sigiriya was rapidly engulfed by the surrounding forest; the legend of its existence survived only in Buddhist writings and local knowledge.
A few generations ahead to the 1800s, the colonial British were in town—yes, we got everywhere, we were the COVID of colonists. George Turnour, more likely his Sri Lankan assistants, translated the books mentioning Sigiriya. Later on, in 1831, a Scotsman called Jonathan Forbes set out on an expedition to the region and found the old city. A party of British mountaineers eventually ascended the rock twenty years later. Completing a thorough investigation of the location, Harry Bell, the then Archaeological Commissioner of Ceylon, effectively found the Lion's Paws giving the rock its name. Originally named a UNESCO world heritage site in 1982, Sigiriya has attracted tourists ever since.
The museum building itself is really remarkable. If you are not from the UK, kindly Google the London Barbican Centre as the museum truly brought back memories of its design. The museum's construction was a wonderful blend of sharp edges and uniform forms softened by flowing water and juxtaposing soft green vegetation atop austere concrete.
Certain areas of the museum had been left exposed to the heavens, with trees slung across the floor and twisting up and out of the carefully constructed roof. Lessons in history acquired, buildings appreciated, and perspiration stopped we made our way to the ruins. We crossed a bridge across the moat and reached the remains of Sigiriya after passing through the gauntlet of guides and turning over our tickets to the gate staff.
Once you start a lengthy road that runs straight forward in front of the rock all the way to its base. Lay the ground level remnants of the ancient city spread out left and right of the way. As soon as you arrive on the grounds, follow the road to the right to find yourself on a bank with a great perspective of Sigiriya and the wrecked gardens.
Reversing course, the road meanders across the ruins and leads you past historic fountains supplied from ponds all the way at the summit of the mountain. Although when we visited the fountains were not running, I have heard that they still operate during heavy rain. Part of the large and exquisite antique water gardens are these fountains. Though we are not specialists in gardens, archaeology, or anything else, we can say they are absolutely beautiful!
Winding through the historic gardens, you can turn off left to discover an octagonal man-made lake beneath the shade of the granite monolith and caves. If you keep on straight, though, it's time to climb the rock itself.
Heading across a natural arch created by two big stones, the trail circles around the rock to the left hand side higher. The signs indicate that this section of the path is a natural rock garden, unlike the planned geometry of the water gardens down below.
Rising the first set of stone stairs, we shared the trek with legions of monkeys and the sporadic street dog. At the top of this first stairway, the road spreads out and levels out into the first plateau and provides us first opportunity to stop and take in the vista. On this level there are some sizable rectangular remains.
On the next plateau we were met with one of the most famous views of Sigiriya and perhaps even Sri Lanka as a whole. Two enormous Lion's paws with claws outstretched lie either side of a great stone stairway. These magnificent paws are all that remain of the carved stone Lion that sat watching over the last staircase to the old palace above. These were the paws that gave Sigiriya the moniker "Lion Rock." Long gone, collapsed and consumed by the forest, the lion's body and head These enormous paws now mark the change from the old stone stairway to the contemporary metal path up the mountain.
Here, there is a word of caution: signs everywhere urging to stay quiet since this area is prone to wasp attacks. Until we observed the extent of the hives dangling from the rock above, we considered this to be somewhat over cautious. Be careful; the area will be closed should a wasp attack take place. For further information, review the tips part at the blog's conclusion.
Though the vista is amazing, the last climb stretch—especially in the 30+ degree heat and brilliant sun—is not comfortable. We were sweating, exhausted, and dehydrated by the time we arrived at the top: 1200 steps in all! Still, the perspective from the top balanced everything.
The highest hill in the area, Sigiriya offers a whole 360-degree vista over the Sri Lankan jungle below. Jagged blue mountain peaks abound along the horizon; beneath lakes and rivers, shimmer and wind through the rich green of Central Sri Lanka.
Before, we had ascended several mountains with breathtaking scenery. Often, though, these points of view are shaped by a cityscape in the distance, a big road winding through or an inconveniently positioned pylon. Sigiriya was unusual. Like something from the Jurassic Park set, the scene seemed to be practically primordial. We are not claiming that there was no infrastructure or road visible; rather, if there was, the surrounding environment overwhelmed it into insignificance.
Turning north, we could see Pidurangala Rock towering like a small volcano from the woodland below. Looking down on Pidurangala from this distance, it appeared little in relation to the giant we had just ascended. Though the perspective Sigiriya presented made everything surrounding seem small, we know it is not small in reality—it certainly did not feel small when we climbed it!
Arriving late afternoon to see the sunset from the top of Sigiriya, our first visit to the site This was excellent; the panoramic picture of the changing sky was really amazing. In silence, we sat for the best part of an hour as the evening swallows wheel and cascade above as the sun sank below the horizon. Though we would have stayed longer, the journey down in the dark appealed to none!
Arriving far earlier in the day, we peaked early afternoon during our second visit. This was maybe a better moment even if it lacked the drama of a sunset since we could more fully explore the ruins and take in the vistas in all their beauty.
A partly filled pond rests atop the Lion's Rock of Sigiriya while a jumble of stairs crosses the foreground. At the summit of the rock, there are many, many buildings, platforms, pools and ponds; we spent a fair lot of time meandering about, snapping pictures and just in awe of the amazing vistas all around us.
Amazingly arranged at varied heights with steep staircases linking several "floors," the remnants of the old city are One end of the palace rock features a big carved pool. Though almost half full, this pool which supplies the fountains below was nonetheless shockingly big for something perched at the top of a massive boulder!
Every loop around the remnants of Sigiriya would expose a fresh view or ruin and almost endless photo possibilities. Though we had a tough hot hike up Lions Rock, it hadn't really registered to us with regard to height. Looking down to the water gardens, it felt like we were viewing a map from above.
From above, the Sigiriya water gardens. From this great of a height, they seem to be a tiny model.
We kept staring at far-off locations thinking what they were, then realised it was something we had passed earlier that day.
At the summit of the cliff, we also observed other noteworthy animal sightings like monkeys, eagles, and a small group of street dogs with apparently perfect Instagram poses! The views, ruins, and ambiance at the summit of Sigiriya astounded us both at each visit.
There's a bifurcation in the road between the Lion's paws and the first plateau as you descend there. One path leads you down to the gardens in the same manner you arrived, and the other turns left and grips the face of the cliff dangerously. We were too late to choose this alternative road on our first visit, as we were descending following dusk; but, on our second visit we had enough time to follow the left trail and see the "Mirror Wall."
The "Mirror Wall" is not a mirror (as such). Originally covered in plaster, the wall was given its name from its shining clarity. From the rock face side of the wall, the route allows you in on the secret of the "Mirror Wall".
There are many centuries of graffiti crammed on the side facing the rock. Visitors from long ago leave their ideas of Sigiriya etched into the wall. From the historic graffiti, the road descends a series of spiral stairs to the well-known murals.
Colourful frescoes, all that remain of a huge tapestry of cave paintings estimated to have stretched all the way around Sigiriya, painted onto the walls of a great cavernous overhang. The paintings have been the topic of great discussion since their exquisite thinly clothed subjects. While some say these are paintings of the king's concubines, others assert they are religious figures dispersing sacrifices.
Leaving the Mirror Wall and cave paintings, we proceeded to the gardens below. The park was shutting and the light was waning, so on our first visit we had to dash to the exit and we missed exploring any more. Our second trip let us fix our earlier mistake and hunt for the jewels we had overlooked.
We earlier discussed the lake and cavernues to the left of the main road leading to the rock face. You will be pointed to the right of the road when descending the rock; confusingly, this will now be your left with the rock behind you). From the "Cobra Head Cave," which indeed looks like a cobra getting ready to strike, an old urinal, and even a reception hall cut into the top of a particularly big boulder, there is plenty to see here. Eventually, the road wiggles you towards the required arcade of tourist stores and the car park. We would say Sigiriya is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but it was so good we had to do it twice.